3 epic tracks to explore in the Victorian High Country
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Time to read 9 min
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Time to read 9 min
The Victorian High Country is an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise, and it is chock full of fantastic camping spots, charming villages, iconic pubs, dramatic landscapes and challenging 4WD tracks.
And if you’re planning a trip this summer, you’re in luck! The Victorian Government has announced that from 1 December 2024 until 30 June 2025, 131 of Victoria’s paid campgrounds will be free of charge. (Find out more here.)
Located in northeast Victoria, the Vic High Country is an alpine region which means many of the tracks and roads experience seasonal closures every year. The time frame is generally from the King’s Birthday long weekend in June until approximately the Melbourne Cup long weekend in November, but this can vary or be extended depending on the weather and track conditions.
The tracks are only opened when conditions are deemed safe and suitable — for not only four-wheel drivers but also the structural integrity of the track. Even in the ‘on-season’, inclement weather can lead to track closures, so it’s essential to check the Parks Victoria website for the latest track and region updates while planning your trip.
When tackling Vic High Country 4WD routes it’s important to consider your experience levels. Many of the tracks are very remote, feature various water crossings, rugged terrain and are advised for experienced 4WD drivers only.
If you’re bringing your camper trailer with you, make sure the track you choose is suitable and that your camper is up to the task. Offroad trailers are recommended. And always keep the safety of everyone on the road in mind; while you might be up for the challenge of taking your trailer along the Billy Goat Bluff, the car trying to pass you in the opposite direction might not be happy about being put in a tough situation.
Everyone heading down the tracks should have recovery equipment, navigation and communication devices (including UHF radios and a satellite phone). And make sure your 4WD has high clearance, low range and is up to the task. Spring and autumn tend to be quite cool, so pack for cold nights. And the winter months are even colder, so plan accordingly.
There are more 4WD tracks in the Vic High Country than you can throw a stick at, but if you’re looking for somewhere to start then the Wonnangatta Valley is the place to go.
The wide expanse of the Wonnangatta Valley is a mecca for four-wheel driving and remote camping
The area has tons of camp areas and small towns to explore and use as your base camp. A visit to the iconic Dargo Hotel is a must if you enjoy good pub grub and want to get insider info from the locals.
Dargo can make for a great basecamp, but if you’re after something a bit more out of the way then we recommend checking out Talbotville Historic Township Camping Area (Grant Historic Area). It’s a bit of a trek, but that’s the beauty of it. You’ll get to experience several river crossings, but once you’re there you’ll be in a great central spot to explore the various tracks in this section of the High Country.
Camping at Talbotville
Now, what we’ve all been waiting for — the tracks! We’ve pinpointed Licola as the main starting place for these tracks, with the routes heading east towards Dargo. But they can all be done in either direction, or you could even make a loop of it.
This epic track is one of the best (and more difficult) tracks in the Vic High Country, particularly if you’re towing a camper trailer. While the Zeka Spur Track isn’t very long (around 20–30km), the terrain is challenging, and you’ll have to travel along a handful of other tracks to get there so we recommend allowing at least a day if not more to complete it. Luckily, there are plenty of camping areas along the route to check out.
Wonnangatta (Zeka Spur) Track
Please note, due to the challenging terrain, the Wonnangatta (Zeka Spur) Track is often closed due to inclement weather, so be sure to get the latest updates before you head out.
The track can be accessed from both ends, but to make matters simple we’ll use Licola as our general starting point, heading east towards Dargo.
From Licola, head north along Tamboritha Road. It starts off being sealed but will become gravel as you head towards the Alpine National Park. Not long after Lost Plain Picnic Area you’ll reach Arbuckle Junction.
Veer left to join Howitt Road, which will lead you north through the national park. Be sure to stop at the historic Howitt Hut along the way — it’s a must-see for any Vic High Country adventure, and there’s a camping area if you’re already ready for a rest.
Not long after Howitt Hut you’ll turn right onto the Zeka Spur track.
(Alternatively, continue on a short stretch and turn left onto King Billy Track, which is another stunning and fun track heading west, linking up to a handful of other tracks which can lead you to Mansfield and Lake Eildon.)
Once on the Zeka Spur, it’s a 22km stretch of four-wheel driving paradise, complete with steep climbs and descents, challenging terrain and breathtaking views. Take it slow and steady and keep your UHF handy to communicate with other vehicles on the track.
The Zeka Spur Track joins the Wonnangatta Track, which has a similar level of difficulty. Not long after it becomes the Wonnangatta Track, you can stop and check out the old Wonnangatta Station, complete with a cemetery, ruined cattlemen’s hut and campground.
Continue along the Wonnangatta Track, then turn left onto Humffray River Track, right onto Hart Spur Track, left onto Mount Hart Track then right onto Tea Tree Spur Track, all in fairly quick succession.
Once you’re on Tea Tree Spur Track it’s a nice drive through the Tea Tree Range State Forest, with a few steep and rocky sections thrown in, heading south to Talbotville.
The Wonnangatta (Zeka Spur) Track can get rocky in spots
In Talbotville you’ll find the camping area we mentioned earlier, which makes for a great stop-over before tackling the rest of the route (or heading to other tracks in the area).
From Talbotville join the Crooked River Track. This track can be a lot of fun, and it crosses the Wongungarra River seven times, so make sure you’ve got the right gear and drive sensibly. As you head south, Crooked River Track joins Talbotville Road. Follow this road south down to Kingwill Bridge, where you’ll turn left onto Wonnangatta Road (marked as Crooked River Road on the Hema High Country Victoria map).
Follow Wonnangatta Road south for 21km until you reach the Shortcut Road turnoff. Turn left onto Shortcut Road and follow this road east until it meets Dargo Road (C601). Turn left onto Dargo Road and enjoy the cruisy drive north-east to Dargo, where you can enjoy some great pub food to celebrate.
The Wonnangatta (Zeka Spur) Track isn’t for everyone, and if you’re after a more direct or camper-friendly 4WD route east to Dargo, or the Zeka Spur section is closed, then heading via the Moroka Range Road is a great alternative.
It’s a medium difficulty route, with good elevation so you can still expect some great views. And with a handful of other tracks spearing off it, including the iconic Billy Goat Bluff, it’s a real choose-your-own-adventure (weather and time dependent) drive.
Starting in Licola, head onto Tamboritha Road heading north-east towards Arbuckle Junction — this section is around 47km long. At this junction you can either veer left onto Howitt Road to head up to Zeka Spur or turn right onto Moroka Road to head west towards Dargo. The road climbs up to McFarlane Saddle Trail Head and Camping Area (if you're up for a multi-day hike, stop here to strap on your boots and head to Lake Tali Karng).
Arbuckle Junction
If the weather is good and you want to check out a 4WD track, not long after McFarlane Saddle you can turn right onto Mt Wellington Track, which will lead you south until an intersection where you can turn left (east) onto Moroka Range Track. It’s a fun detour, and you can stop and check out Moroka Hut along the way, and it eventually rejoins with Moroka Road at the Moroka River Crossing.
Moroka Hut
Keep following Moroka Road and you'll soon reach Horseyard Flat Campground and Horseyard Hut. Once you've stopped and had a look around, continue along the road to the Pinnacles Fire Tower and lookout and Pinnacles Road.
Here you’ve got a choice. Either turn left and you can experience the epic wonder that is driving downhill on the Billy Goat Bluff (more on this later), heading towards Wonnangatta Road and Kingwill Bridge. Please note, Billy Goat Bluff is one of, if not the most challenging tracks in the Vic High Country and while it has been done with a camper trailer, we do not recommend it.
If you are towing a trailer and don’t want to risk it, or the weather doesn’t look good, then turn right onto Pinnacles Road, then join Junction Spur Track. Junction Spur Track spears off into a couple of different tracks, which each become other tracks as well. Any of these will eventually lead you east towards Dargo Road — simply choose the one that calls to you and enjoy the adventure.
Once on Dargo Road it an easy drive north to the country hospitality of Dargo Hotel.
When people mention four-wheel driving in the Vic High Country, the Billy Goat Bluff track is often one of the first that comes to mind. While the track alone (not counting the route getting there) is only 11.1km long, it is one of the Vic High Country’s most challenging and steepest tracks and delivers more picture-perfect and nail-biting moments than you can count.
Billy Goat Bluff Track
The route is graded difficult and is advised for experienced four-wheel drivers only. It can be driven from either direction, but if you’re going to do it — and you’ve got the right setup and four-wheel driving experience to do it safely — we recommend going downhill coming via the Moroka route detailed above.
As mentioned, we don’t recommend towing on the Billy Goat Bluff due to the steep terrain and narrow track which could prove very dangerous should there be other traffic on the track.
Once you reach the Pinnacles turn-off, turn north onto the Billy Goat Bluff. It’s narrow, rocky, exposed and edged with cliff faces, which can make passing oncoming vehicles very challenging. A UHF radio is a must to communicate with other drivers on the track.
Be prepared for a steep descent of 1200m over 7km. The track can get very slippery in wet weather, so drive (or don’t drive) according to the conditions.
Once you reach the end of the track, give yourself a clap on the back and a moment for your heart rate to settle before turning onto Wonnangatta Road. Here you can either turn left towards Kingwill Bridge and head over to Dargo or turn right to try out the Crooked River Track towards Talbotville and then up to the Wonnangatta (Zeka Spur) Track.
The Crooked River Track has so many water crossings you'll lose count
We've only dipped our toe into what the Vic High Country has to offer. From the Blue Rag Range Track to Mount Pinnibar and exploring the Grant Historic Area, there's a lot to discover.
Please note, a number of tracks have been closed due to storm and flood damage earlier this year and are not expected to reopen until late 2024 or early 2025, including the Ingeegoodbee Track, Cobberas Track and Macfarlane Flat Track.
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