Head on an epic outback adventure in Bourke, NSW

Red dirt plains, the Darling-Baaka River, national parks and more places to park your camper than you can poke a stick at — the small outback town of Bourke in northern New South Wales has it all.

Some of my all-time favourite camping trips have happened in and around Bourke — mind you, I grew up there, which meant I had plenty of time to explore. In summer we’d hitch up our Trek camper and head to our most loved spots along the Darling-Baaka River for days of off-grid camping, swimming and watersports. School camping trips were hosted in old shearer’s quarters of the various nearby stations and visits to Mount Oxley and Gundabooka were always good fun.

Despite being on the smaller side, and a bit out of the way for those coming from the coast, Bourke has become a favourite for many campers who want to explore the outback NSW or are on a Darling River Run.

Where to start

If you’re unfamiliar with the area, the first place to go is the Back O’ Bourke Information and Exhibition Centre. Here, you’ll be able to chat with the staff, get information on the best places to go, make bookings and so on. But make sure you allow time to explore the centre itself, which has plenty of informative and artistic displays about the town’s history and cultural heritage. The Standing Stories sculptures is a self-guided and audio-visual tour that reflects the life and stories of some of the 22 Indigenous language groups of the Bourke region.

Go with the flow

Bourke was once home to one of Australia’s largest inland ports, with wool travelling along the river by paddle steamer cargo barges down to the Murray River to South Australia and beyond. While Bourke’s river trade and three original wharves are long gone, you can visit the replica wharf at the Wal Mitchell Wharf Precinct to take a trip back in time. Bring a picnic lunch along and enjoy an afternoon beneath the red gums with views down to the river.

Another way to find out more about the river trade is to walk or drive the self-guided Maritime Trail on the opposite side of the river. The route is well-signposted and starts at the heritage-listed North Bourke Bridge, which is a must-visit Bourke landmark in its own right.

But if you want to get the full experience, then a cruise on the PV Jandra is a must. This two-storey paddleboat was built in 2000 by local fruit farmer Russ Mansell (it’s my obligation as a granddaughter to brag), is a reimagined version of the original Jandra which once operated on the Darling in the 1880s. Step on board and enjoy a leisurely cruise along the river, surrounded by the sound of slowly churning water and birdcall (spot the pelicans, galahs, cockatoos and more).

Mount Oxley

The landscape around Bourke is almost perfectly flat — there are long stretches of road where you can almost see the curve of the earth. But Mount Oxley is one of the few exceptions. Rising 150m high, this giant rock is a must-visit for all visitors. It’s located 45km out of town on the privately owned Rossmore Station, so you will need to organise a permit with the info centre before you make the short drive over. The summit offers breathtaking views over the surrounding landscape and an unbeatable vantage point to enjoy the truly vibrant outback sunsets (I’ve yet to see better). Make sure you bring your camera and walking shoes to explore the rocky hilltop. It’s a great spot for day trips, or stay longer with the camp kitchen, bathrooms and camping available (booking required). If you don’t want to tow the camper up there, organise to stay at the nearby Little Bogan River Camp.

Gundabooka National Park

Only a 50km drive south of Bourke via the Kidman Way, Gundabooka National Park covers 64,000 hectares and features some stunning natural landscapes, walking trails, rock art and several threatened animal and plant species. Follow the Yapa (Mulgowan) Aboriginal art walking track to see rock art petroglyphs or take the Little Mountain Track for great views from the top of Mount Gundabooka. It’s a beautiful area, so allow plenty of time to explore. For camping, the Dry Tank campground has camper-friendly sites and basic facilities available (bookings are a must).

Toorale National Park

Once part of a local sheep station, Toorale, this national park was created in 2008 and makes for another day excursion or overnight stay as you explore the area. It’s on the junction of the Darling-Baaka and Warrego rivers, which means there’s plenty of wildlife to spot and the land also has deep ties with the Kurnu-Baakandji people. Bring all your outdoor gear and go bushwalking, fishing and camp at the original homestead.

Outback art

To see some local outback art, don’t miss the Percy Hobson Mural on the Mitchell Highway as you enter town. It’s beautiful water tower mural depicting Percy Hobson, a Bourke local and also Australia’s first Indigenous Commonwealth Games gold medallist (1962). The mural also features the handprints of the entire Bourke community.

Camping options

Here are some more great places to park the camper during your stay:

• Mitchell Caravan Park is central to town, and has all the usual facilities, camper-friendly campsites cabins and (more uniquely) a walk-in aviary.
• Kidman’s Camp is situated on the Darling in North Bourke and has plenty of accommodation and camping options, facilities, pools, easy-river access and is also where the PV Jandra cruises depart. It’s also only a short walk from the North Bourke Bridge.
• Station stays are another great way to see how the locals live. Rose Isle Station, Trilby Station, Dunlop Station and Lower Lila Station are some great options to visit and have plenty to see and do.

The beauty of Bourke

I’ve only scratched the surface of what a true Back O’ Bourke experience is like. It’s a land that doesn’t do anything in halfway measures, and while there can be plenty of challenges, the beauty you’ll discover makes it more than worth the effort. So, what are you waiting for?

THE NEXT STEP

Are you ready to experience the freedom of the open road? Preparation is the key to success. Check out the below articles so you can prepare or get inspiration for your next outdoor adventure in the Australian outback.

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