How to drive in mud: Offroad driving techniques
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Time to read 3 min
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Time to read 3 min
A weekend away four-wheel-driving around in a mud-hole is usually done with a grin and can be hard to resist. But when a dry track becomes muddy after rain, driving it can do damage to the surface and result in nasty ruts once it dries out again.
For this reason, the best option is to avoid mud wherever possible. Many tracks will close after rain to prevent damage to track surfaces. But if there is no other option, you might as well enjoy it. Just be sure to go about it the right way.
Tyre pressures will vary depending on the consistency of the mud. If it’s deep then they can be dropped into the low 20s, but if it’s a thin layer of mud with a solid bottom you might wish to stay up around 28psi to cut in a little bit.
Mud terrain tyres are designed to force mud out of their tread pattern to increase traction, but it’s important to remember that their thick blocks can do a lot of damage to soft tracks — so be careful. A snorkel will also be helpful in deep mud holes, and if you get stuck then you’ll need proper rated recovery points to cope with the suction that mud can exert.
A lot of mud can have a nasty effect on your vehicle in the long term, so it’s important to give it a good wash as soon as you’re done. Dried-on mud can damage paintwork; and once it’s in your vehicle’s brakes, wheel bearings and various other mechanical components it can cause wear due to its abrasive nature.
Before you get stuck right into the mud, first find out — what kind of mud is it? Get out and have a look. Poke a stick in to find out how deep it is. Feel around muddy water to see if there are any submerged logs or rocks. Look out for tracks or ruts left by other vehicles; these may be suitable to drive through or may be so deep as to cause you to bottom out. If they are too deep you can either try to straddle them or drain out as much water as you can and do a bit of shovelling to fill in the ruts.
When you’re ready to go, make sure you’re in 4WD, lock hubs, engage diff locks and/or select the appropriate terrain management system. You’ll probably be fine in your standard first or second gear (without engaging low range), just so long as you keep your revs up and approach with enough momentum to see you through, but not so much that you could lose control.
A bit of wheel spin is expected and will actually help your tyres to clean out their tread and gain traction. If, however, your wheels are spinning too much, digging in and losing momentum, quickly turn your steering wheel from one side to the other so that your front wheels rock left and right. This can help the tyres to gain traction on the edge of the rut you’re digging and pull you forward. If that doesn’t work, try backing up a bit and starting forward again.
A steep muddy uphill slope is where traction becomes nothing more than a memory. When going up, avoid changing gears, don’t be afraid of a bit of wheelspin and try to keep constant forward motion, moving close to a walking pace. When heading down, select an appropriately low gear, low range if it’s steep, and allow your engine braking to control the descent.
If there’s an alternative route around a boggy mud hole, then take it. However, if there isn’t one available then detouring off the formed track should not be considered. If your tyre pressures are too high, you will sink faster, and you’ll dig bigger ruts into the track. If you have big chunky mud-terrain tyres, be particularly careful to avoid excessive wheel spin.
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